© 2005 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

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My new computer doesn't have a floppy drive on it. How am I supposed to get embroidery designs on my computer?
-Kathy.

This is a dilemma that is rearing its ugly head more and more often. Keep this in mind when you purchase new computers for embroidery use. If the computer does not come with a floppy disc, ask if you can have one added. A better question is, once you get the embroidery design on your computer, how are you going to transfer the design to your embroidery machine since you can't place the design on a floppy.

As for transfering a embroidery design to your computer without a floppy drive, I have these suggestions;

• The best long term fix is to purchase an external floopy drive that has a USB connector. This would cost less than $40 and would solve the problem of not having a floppy drive.
• The new USB drives can cost as little as $30 and most older computers have a USB port and I have yet to see a new computer that didn't have at least one if not more USB slots. These drives are simple to use and would make it easy to transfer the files from a computer with a floppy to the USB and then from the USB to a second computers hard drive.
• You can email the design to yourself. Even if you only have one email account, email it from the computer with the floppy drive and then check your mail from the computer that doesn't have a floppy.
• Peer to Peer networks are simple to set up with operating systems of Win98 or newer. You can connect two computers together using a cross cable, or a better way is to purchase a small router. Many routers are plug-n-play and cost under $50.

As I was saying, that was the simple solution. A bigger problem will be how to get the embroidery design from your new computer to the embroidery machine since there isn't a floppy drive available.

• If you follow my advice above to purchase an external floppy drive then your problem is already resolved.
• The easiest method after the external drive would be to have your embroidery machine connected to your new computer. If you have putting this off, it might be the perfect time to make this a priority. Having the ability to send a design driectly to your embroidery machine is a much bigger time saver than is realized until you are able to do it. Then you will be spoiled.
• You could follow the steps above in reverse, but this would be a time killer if you had to do it on a regular basis.

© 2005 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

If you have a comment or question for AskThomas, simply drop Thomas a note. Describe your situation with as much detail as possible Email may be directed to: Tom@StrawberryStitch.com

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I took your Digitizing 101 course in Long Beach. During your presentation (which was great) we discussed "Cross hatching" to lay down the material in terry cloth robes and towels. Can you give me the instructions and stitch parameters etc, for laying down the cross hatching?
-Conrad.

The cross hatching is accomplished by two complex fills each running at opposing 45 degree angles. This gives a lattice look and is wonderful for matting down terry cloth or polar fleece to avoid the use of a topping. In general topping products cost more than just the price of the product plus shipping. There is a cost associated with their use in production as well. The time to pick out, clean up, mist and dry the garments extends the length of the project in a manner which isn't often charged for. This becomes an unrecoverable cost.

The cross hatch technique adds stitches to the design, however it places all the production cost on the machine and removes the cost from the finishing process. Whether to charge for the added stitches the technique adds to the design is a decision you will have to address, but there are two primary advantages to using the cross hatch.
1. Once the design is through running, the backing may be trimmed and the garment folded without the need to pick out a topping or wait for the garment to dry from being moistened.
2. Unlike topping where the benefits are literally washed away in the laundry, the cross hatch is permanent wash after wash keeping the embroidery clean and crisp and unobstructed by the pile of the fabric.

The technique consists of two light density fills which are sewn in a color as close to the garment as possible. The fills are formed in the shape of the design and extend between .5mm and 3.0mm to the outside of the design. The further the fills extend outside the logo, the more noticeable they are. The first fill runs at a 45 degree angle and the second fill runs at an opposing 45 degrees. The look is similar to lattice, which is why I call it a cross hatch.

In general the density setting of the fills would be between 2.0 - 4.0mm. The more pile there is to the fabric, the denser the cross hatch should be.

The stitch length used is between 3.0 - 4.0mm. The more pile there is to the fabric, the shorter the stitch length. The shorter stitch length will hold the pile down more securely.

The two light density fills are the first color to sew in the design. Once the pile is matted down, the design will continue to sew as it was originally created.

The look will be quite shocking for you and stunning for your customer. Give it a try, but be fair warned, your customers will love the look.

© 2005 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

If you have a comment or question for AskThomas, simply drop Thomas a note. Describe your situation with as much detail as possible Email may be directed to: Tom@StrawberryStitch.com

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I had a customer send me a Corel V12 design file and, in the past, I've saved these (in Corel V9) as .dxf files and inserted them into Wilcom for digitizing. In V12, however, when I save them as .dxf and insert them into Wilcom, they are now giving me error messages. I've tried saving them as a different Version .dxf, but that doesn't work either. Do you have any insight as to what's happen here?
-Kathy.

This is a common problem that seems to be surfacing more and more as digitizers upgrade their Corel Draw program. I contacted Wilcom Ltd. on this issue and they believe it is due to the version of .DXF format and not due to anything by CorelDraw or Wilcom ES. The solution is fairly simple.

There are multiple versions of DXF file formats, which are AutoCad files. Previous versions of CorelDraw didn't ask the user to specify which version of the file format they wished to use. In CorelDraw v12 you must select a DXF file format, and the format you choose must be supported by Wilcom.

Wilcom currently supports AutoCad R11 files. From the CorelDraw export window, select from the list of choices the R11 file format. Then you shouldn't have any problem importing the DXF file into Wilcom ES.

© 2004 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

If you have a comment or question for AskThomas, simply drop Thomas a note. Describe your situation with as much detail as possible Email may be directed to: Tom@StrawberryStitch.com

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I have sewn out my design several times, but my customer says when he sews it on his equipment the border does not match up to the fill. What could be the problem?
-Julie.

This is a common problem and I was just having this discussion with a friend of mine. It is very common for embroiderers to jump to the conclusion that if there is a problem in their sample, the problem is in the digitizing. This could be the issue, but there are many other possible causes that must be explored.

Embroidery production is made of three primary areas; Application - The use of backing, needle selection, hooping techniques etc, Machines - Tensioning, maintenance, routine oiling and preventive care, Design - The creation of the design. All three of these areas carry the same weight. All three must be seen to with more than reasonable care if quality embroidery is to be produced.

When a design is correctly created and well tested, then there is probably something in one of the other two areas which is not being accomplished well and subsequently causing the poor quality.

A skilled digitizer should problem solve the issues by addressing which of the three areas is causing the problem. It may be more than one area and it may very well be the way the design was created. The digitizer should ask appropriate questions such as "What type of backing was used?" "What type of needles are being used?" "Is the backing completly within the hoop?" "Is there any flagging accuring?". The questions should not be asked in a way that sounds demeaning, but in a positive light much like a doctor would inquire of a patient's health.

When a digitizer is able to solve their customer's problem, they will build respect and job security. Have an open mind that the problem may very well be with the design, however don't assume it is with the design because your customer holds that opinion. Locate the true cause and quickly resolve the issue so everyone can return to their work.

© 2004 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

If you have a comment or question for AskThomas, simply drop Thomas a note. Describe your situation with as much detail as possible Email may be directed to: Tom@StrawberryStitch.com

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I am trying to sew a jacketback design and no matter what I try there are loops in the fill. I have changed needles, tightened the tensions and tried different types of backing. What am I doing wrong?
-Mike.

Often looping will occur in jacketback projects not only in fill areas, but in satin stitch objects as well. Usually the looping in jacketback designs occur when a heavy jacket is sewn on a tubular machine. The weight from the jacket is difficult for the arms to support. The jacket sits on the needle plate and without the specified clearance, loops result.

You can prove the problem is not a timing, needle or tension problem by hooping a piece of test material and running the same design. You will notice the design runs well, because the test material does not have the weight of the jacket. This is one of the few draw backs to a tubular machine. The problem can be corrected if your machine has a table top. Simply insert the table top so the weight of the jacket is supported by the table and the arms don't droop.

It is understandable to believe there is a tension problem when loops appear in a fill. After all it stands to reason if the thread looks loopy or loose, tightening the tension would resolve the problem. As you found, it didn't resolve the loop issue. The next time this occurs, keep in mind if the timing and tension are acceptable for the test material, then it is undestandable the tensions would be acceptable for other fabrics as well. Don't forget to loosen back up the tension wheels of any needles you tightened attempting to correct the loop problem.

Once a machine is timed well and tensioned correctly, there are few reasons to make adjustments, especially major ones such as several turns to a tension wheel. Normally there is some other physical cause to looping such as improper hooping, the garment dragging in the needle plate or the need for the machine to be oiled.

© 2004 Thomas L. Moore, Jr.

If you have a comment or question for AskThomas, simply drop Thomas a note. Describe your situation with as much detail as possible Email may be directed to: Tom@StrawberryStitch.com

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